When it comes to a memorable Christmas dinner, few dishes rival the grandeur of a roasted goose. This traditional centerpiece has adorned our yuletide tables for centuries, and offers a rich, tasty alternative to that brattish newcomer turkey. Cooking a goose takes a little bit more work, but it will reward you by becoming the succulent star of your festive feast. Here’s your step-by-step guide to preparing the best Christmas goose with hints and tips from some of your favourite Game Fair chefs…

Why Goose?

The goose holds a special place in culinary history and has been a staple of Christmas celebrations long before turkey made its debut. Its darker, flavoursome meat and natural fat content make it a luxurious option for Christmas dinner. And there’s a bonus, as Jose Souto points out:

Jose Souto 

Jose

“One of the main things to be aware of when cooking a Goose is to have a deep roasting tray with a trivet to put the goose on, this will stop the goose frying in its own fat. Geese have a lot of fat and during cooking this fat needs to be decanted from the tray so that it does not burst into flames or overflow. This fat can then be used to roast delicious potatoes and can be kept in a sealed container in the fridge for later use.”

Choosing the Right Goose

The first step in cooking the perfect goose is selecting the right bird. If you’re buying one look for a free-range or pasture-raised goose, which tends to have better flavor and texture. If you’re lucky enough to be able to get hold of some wild goose, then game chef Tim Maddams points out that you should plump for “younger-looking birds”.

Goose sizes vary, but as a rule of thumb:

  • A 5-6 kilo goose serves 6-8 people.
  • A larger bird (6-7 kilo) can serve up to 10 people.

Fresh geese are ideal, but frozen geese can be just as good if properly thawed. Plan ahead, as thawing a large bird in the refrigerator can take several days.

Preparation: Setting the Stage for Success

  1. Thawing (if necessary): If your goose is frozen, allow it to thaw in the refrigerator for 24 hours per 5 pounds of weight. Avoid room temperature thawing to maintain food safety.
  2. Cleaning and Drying: Remove the giblets and neck from the cavity (reserve them for stock or gravy). Rinse the goose under cold water and pat it completely dry with paper towels. Dry skin is crucial for achieving a crisp, golden exterior.
  3. Pricking the Skin: Geese are fatty birds, and much of that fat is stored beneath the skin. To render this fat during roasting, use a sharp skewer or knife to prick the skin all over, especially around the thighs and breast. Be careful not to pierce the meat.
  4. Seasoning: Season the goose generously with salt and pepper, both inside and out. If cooking whole (see below), stuff the cavity with aromatic ingredients like:
  • Quartered oranges and apples
  • Fresh herbs such as thyme, rosemary, and sage
  • Garlic cloves

These aromatics infuse the meat with subtle flavors as the goose cooks.

The Big Questions

The goose cook faces two tricky decisions. Firstly, should you serve the goose whole, or portion it for easier cooking? The whole oprtion is more attractive if you are bringing the goose to the table, but the second is more practical when the legs and the breast cook at such different rates.

The other major question is, whether or not you should you aim for tender, pink flesh and cook your goose quickly? Or should you go low and slow, to make sure everything is hunky dory?

Pictured above:Chef Tim Maddams

 CHEF SUTO

Luckily Tim Maddams has some sage advice that answers both questions together:  “if you want to roast your goose whole, I’d suggest you age it well and slow roast it, sacrificing any pink meat in favour of tenderness. But be very careful not to dry it out,” he suggests.

Game and Flames chef Cai Ap Bryn has his own ‘foolproof’ method for cooking wild goose. “Break the goose down in to legs, breast and carcass. all skin on’: he suggests. “Then cook them separately:”

“Legs, place in an oven dish with some thyme, garlic and some aromatics, cover with duck or goose fat, and cook slowly confit style. until the meat is tender but not falling off the bone. To finish grill or pan fry to colour the skin.

“Breasts—score the skin in diagonal patterns and pat dry. Rub with some five spice and salt then pan fry skin down until the skin is reasonably crispy then flip over, spoon over some butter with thyme and garlic like a steak, and then put into the oven for a few minutes. If you have a meat thermometer it needs to be around 52 degrees celsius for medium rare, and then rested. Resting is very important. Slice thinly to serve…

“Carcass- use this to make stock and gravy, brown in the oven with carrots, onion and celery—even a few tomatoes.Then cover with water and simmer for hours, skimming off the fat and froth from the top. Reduce to a third for a rich stock, but don’t season it, season it when you use it.”

Pictured above:Chef Cai Ap Bryn

Chef Seamus McDonagh at Squerryes Estate should know a thing or two about goose as he’s serving it to 50 people in the restaurant on Christmas Day. He broadly agrees with the Maddams Method, saying “If you were to roast the bird whole, then the breast would be over-cooked, and the legs would be tough.”

If you’re getting a farmed bird Seamus also suggests you save some hard work for yourself: “ask the butcher to prepare it for you: They need just to remove the legs and excess carcass, to chop up the wings and neck into 2cm pieces and to remove the wishbone (this makes the goose easier to carve).”

Pictured above: Chef James Martin

If you’re cooking a farmed goose but want to keep it whole, James Martin has the lowdown on getting great results: “Pre-heat the oven to 220C/425F/Gas 7 Place the goose in the pre-heated oven. Roast for 20 minutes, then turn the temperature down to 180C/350F/Gas 4 and continue to roast for a further 2 hrs and 20 minutes, pouring off any fat from the roasting tin from time to time. (If the goose starts to brown too early, cover it very loosely with foil, removing this for the last 20 minutes so the skin browns well.)

What about cooking it in the Aga? Aga expert Sarah Whittaker suggests an easy-peasy goose treatment: “Put into the simmering oven overnight on a rack. In the morning, lift the rack and goose out of the tin and pour off the melted fat [keeping it, of course]. Put the rack and goose back into the tin and put into the roasting oven for 30 minutes to brown and crisp.”

Accompaniments: What to Serve with Goose

The rich, savory flavors of goose pair beautifully with festive sides. Consider these classics:

  • Potatoes roasted in goose fat: Crispy on the outside and fluffy inside, these are a must-have.
  • Red cabbage braised with apples: A tangy-sweet accompaniment that complements the richness of the meat.
  • Stuffing or dressing: Use goose drippings to enhance a traditional bread or wild rice stuffing.
  • Cranberry-orange relish: A zesty contrast to the savory flavours.
  • Gravy: Make a luscious gravy using the giblets and neck, along with the drippings from the roasting pan.

Tips for Success

  1. Plan Ahead: Start your preparations a day or two in advance to minimize stress.
  2. Control the Fat: Goose fat is delicious but can overwhelm if not managed. Regularly removing excess fat during roasting is key.
  3. Don’t Overcook: Goose meat dries out if overcooked. Keep a close eye on internal temperatures.
  4. Reuse the Fat: Store the rendered fat in an airtight container in the refrigerator. It can last for weeks and elevates everything from vegetables to pie crusts.

This yuletide let the goose take center stage at your table, and savour the joy of bringing a classic dish to life. Cheers to a delicious and unforgettable Christmas!